Unlocking the Secrets of the Nomura House!Blog Tours by Local Guide in Kanazawa, Japan. Ready to Crack a Smile? If so,Visit Us!

0. Welcome to a virtual (imaginary) tour guided by a local

Since this is a fairly long tour, it is strongly recommended that you join only one part of the tour only when you want a change of pace. I hope you don’t let this be a long and wrong tour❤

This blog delves into the Nomura House, a former samurai residence nestled in Kanazawa city, preserving the essence of the Edo period. Unlike official sites that provide detailed and sophisticated introductory information, this blog takes on the form of a virtual tour guided by a local. It addresses common questions that arise during a visit to the Nomura House, presenting each exhibit in a straightforward and engaging manner, making it easy to understand and interesting.
👉Note: If you’re seeking a detailed and sophisticated explanation, please refer to the official website or the websites of travel agencies.

For foreign visitors, business guests, and students exploring Japan, I extend an invitation to experience these stories firsthand. Come and witness the allure of the Nomura House in person. I will be waiting for you!

1. Quick Overview!! ”What’s Nomura House?”

　Let me start with a brief explanation of the Nomura family house before you enter. These explanations are divided into three steps, tailored to accommodate visitors’ levels and situations.

a) For General Visitors:

The following is as brief a summary of the Nomura family house as possible.

1. This house is a restored residence of the Nomura family, which was built in the 1800s (about 200 years ago).
2. The Nomura family were senior retainers who served their lord for generations, equivalent to senior executive officers in modern corporations.
3. Here, you can appreciate the atmosphere of a senior samurai’s residence at that time by viewing the garden, tea room, and utensils.
4. The garden and tea room are especially recommended, as anyone can feel like a samurai just by sitting there.

b) For non-native English Visitors

Further summarized for those for whom English is a second language.

1. This house is a valuable place, as it is the only one open to the public in this samurai mansion district.
2. The residents here were upper-class samurai.
3. If you enter the garden and tea room, you can get a glimpse of the daily life of the samurai from that time.

c) In short (2 examples for American guests):

👉If I had to sum it up in one sentence, it would be something like this. American guests typically prefer concise language that conveys the same meaning. Please choose the one that fits better.

1. The house feels like an another dimension that until recently had been inhabited by a samurai.
2. Unlike the meditation gardens of Kyoto’s Zen temples, you can experience a garden that reflects the daily life of a samurai.

Virtual Tour: Exploring Each Exhibit

The following explanations are crafted to infuse a humorous touch into the usual descriptions, drawing on the unique characteristics of Japanese culture to captivate virtual foreign visitors like you and inspire them to visit in person.

👉 Rest assured, more detailed and conventional explanations await you on-site!

a) Armor

　As soon as you enter the entrance, you will see the armor, which was actually worn by the first head of the Nomura family. As it is a crowded and narrow entrance, a long explanation is not appropriate, but it is based on the explanation board as well.

1. This is the actual armor worn by the first head of the Nomura family.
2. He earned recognition for his valor in battles while wearing this armor, which led to his promotion as a senior samurai.
3. This board provides insights into the details of the battles he participated in.
4. The lord of Kanazawa Castle was in a period of significant instability at that time.
5. The head of the Nomura family was said to have fought with a spear, his specialty.
6. Unlike the ornate armor often displayed in museums, this helmet is both compact and practical.
7. In Japan, the helmet part of the armor is called ‘kabuto’, meaning ‘a beetle’, and its frontal ornament is called ‘kuwagata ‘meaning ‘a stag beetle’.
8. Generally, this ornamentation and size of ‘kuwagata’ indicate the status of the samurai, but unlike stag beetles that usually have a pair of horns, this one is closed at the end.
9. As he was a low-ranked samurai at the time, he likely felt he had no other way to survive but to make his way with his spear, equivalent to a beetle’s horn.
10. This closed circle of the stag beetle ornament on his helmet might look to symbolize his situation of that time!

b)Onikawa Bunko (Ancestors’ Valuable Archives)

The Nomura house features a library showcasing their ancestors’ valuable treasures. Allow me to explain briefly below. Since I believe that many foreigners visiting Japan may not be interested in a detailed explanation, I will instead focus on short stories about the Japanese people.

👉Note: ‘Bunko’ means ‘library’. ‘Onikawa’ is its name, literally meaning ‘devil’s river’, referring to the name of the waterways in the samurai district.

Background

The first thing most foreign visitors would wonder is, ‘Why is this place here?’ (Why?), ‘How did it get here?’ (How?), and ‘What kind of fun is this?’ (What?). So, let me tell you a short story that might make you feel a little better about being here, considering the anticipated questions of many visitors.

1. In the samurai residence area, high-ranking samurai had close ties with lords, aristocrats, and wealthy merchants.
2. They amassed impressive collections of rare and valuable items.
3. When the samurai era ended, many of them faced financial difficulties and had to sell their land and family possessions.
4. Consequently, numerous precious samurai treasures were dispersed.
5. Among these treasures, the Nomura family preserved ancestral swords and letters.
6. Visitors here have a unique opportunity to admire these samurai-era artifacts, which are typically found only in renowned museums.
7. The best part? It’s more affordable than visiting those heavily advertised and staffed museums.
8. The descendant of the Nomura family successfully preserved their ancestral home, overcoming various challenges and opting not to transform it into a large public museum.
9. Moreover, as local guides, we can offer captivating and persuasive explanations at a fraction of the cost compared to expensive museums!
10. This is because perhaps we might be in the same mood of the lower-class samurais of that time, who had no choice but to serve.

Letters

Since we can recognize these as letters at first glance, instead of detailing each one, let me introduce a short story among them that conveys the value of these letters, showcasing a characteristic trait of the Japanese.

1. This is a letter of gratitude from a samurai known for one of the most notable betrayals in Japanese history.
2. Just as “Judas” and “Brutus” are well-known examples in world history, he holds a similar position in Japanese history.
3. He sent his own troops to kill his boss, who was then the de facto king of Japan, while the latter was resting
4. He had been so obedient and loyal to that king up to that point that his betrayal is still considered a mystery.
5. At the time of the betrayal, before the lord of Kanazawa Castle assumed his position, he was subordinate to the murdered king and a colleague of the traitor.
6. If the king had not met his unfortunate end, there might not have been a Lord of Kanazawa Castle and its retainers, including the Nomura family.
7. The king’s tyrannical nature led to the punishment or forced removal of many of his subordinates who failed to meet his expectations, with the most severe consequence being ordered to commit seppuku (ritual suicide).
8. Experts suggest that fear, rather than respect or rationality, compelled many of his men to follow him.
9. Both the traitor and the subsequent lord of Kanazawa Castle might have faced their demise sooner or later.
10. It’s possible that it was the Nomura family, not the traitor that wanted to write a ‘thank you’ letter for the betrayal.

Swords!

Many foreign visitors who appreciate technology also happen to be enthusiasts of swords. Simply by observing these swords, one can appreciate their functional beauty. Here is another glimpse into the unique characteristics and values of Japanese samurai and merchants. In fact, about 150 years ago, the samurai era gave way to the merchant era, and only swords remained！

1. The late Samurai period was marked by relative peace, leading to the creation of many ornamental swords.
2. It’s astounding that these swords are more than two or three hundred years old because they retain both functionality and beauty.
3. It could be considered the last source of pride for the Samurai that they didn’t sell these swords, even amidst the decline of Samurai families.
4. ‘A sword is the soul of a samurai’ held great value. So, no matter how dire their circumstances, it might have been unthinkable to ‘sell their souls’.
5. Samurai stood in contrast to merchants who prioritized survival, even if it meant ‘selling their souls to the devil’.
6. It could be said, then, that the contest for leadership between the samurai and the merchants was predictable from the beginning.
7. For the samurai, who have survived on the power of the sword for nearly a thousand years, the sword is merely a symbol of pride in this time of peace.
8. Literally, did they ‘Live by the sword, die by the sword’, and do the moderns ‘Thrive by the sword, high by the sword’?

Stirrup

This is a harness called a stirrup, designed for a mounted person on a horse to place their feet on. Stirrups were essential for maintaining posture during the violent movements of a horse in battle, allowing the rider to effectively attack opponents. Similar to the swords mentioned earlier, stirrups also became adorned with decorative features during the peaceful samurai era. This particular stirrup is decorated with embedded silver wire. I hope you enjoy this short story inspired by it.

1. This is a horse harness that was placed on both sides of the saddle, serving as a decorative footrest.
2. It wasn’t designed for practical use but rather as an ornamental piece crafted by skilled artisans who adorned the saddle with silver wire.
3. While silver is commonly used for rings, it might seem extravagant to use such a valuable metal for stirrups, which are primarily for foot placement.
4. However, in Kanazawa, a well-known town famous for its gold leaf craftsmanship dating back to the samurai era, metals other than gold may not have been as highly valued.
5. Indeed, people in Kanazawa would never consider embedding gold in stirrups for ‘foot’ placement.
6. For the people of Kanazawa, gold holds utmost importance and should be used for their ‘mouth,’ such as gold leaf toppings on soft ice cream!

Tea Utensils

Cigarette tray

It is displayed as one of the tea utensils.

1. This was originally a portable kit designed for enjoying cigarettes anytime, anywhere.
2. The kit included all the essentials for smoking – a firebox, ashtray, smoking pipe, and a tobacco container – all neatly packed in a single box.
3. In contrast to today’s smoke-restriction era, smoking during the Samurai era was a social activity akin to the tea ceremony.
4. These kits were even used during tea ceremonies to entertainment guests.
5. Much like high-quality incense sticks, the fragrant smoke from these cigarettes was introduced into the tea room, allowing everyone to savor the aroma.
6. They were often adorned with maki-e decoration and remain popular as antiques to this day.
7. The glory of the samurai of that era has vanished like the dissipating smoke from cigarettes, leaving behind only this tobacco tray.
8. Yet, the samurai of that time might have been content not to experience the smoking restrictions of the modern era.

c）Japanese-style garden

👉Many foreign visitors know about this garden in advance through the Internet or word of mouth, and many seem to come here for this reason, and I often see them sitting on the wet edge for a while, chatting quietly, as if to say, “Oh, so this is it. I think it is fine to just sit on the edge together in silence, but as usual, I have laid out a few things in preparation for questions from their perspective.

Background

One of the features of the garden here is not the flowing kyokusui, which is common in Japanese gardens, but the kyokusui that makes a loud noise, so I placed that area as a backdrop. 👉The English voice is a male speaker descended from the British Empire, perfect for conveying the glory of the samurai.

1. A large irrigation canal has been maintained in this former samurai residence area.
2. Originally, this irrigation canal was used to transport lumber when samurai residences were first constructed in this area.
3. Over time, many samurai residences including this one utilized the water from this canal to create their own gardens.
4. Unlike the tranquil aristocratic gardens with slow-flowing water, Kyo-ku-sui, featuring a meandering stream, creates a lively ambiance, reminiscent of a samurai’s garden.
5. However, since this waterfall is powered by electricity, it seems to symbolize the decline of samurai power.

Open Veranda

Inside the Garden

　I mentioned earlier that there is no need for words, but some people may still be confused about what is great or appreciated when they see a masterpiece (as long as they genuinely enjoy it in their own way). I don’t know what will make sense to you in that area, but if you find something to your liking, please try it out when chatting with us at the wet edge.👉The English part will be told by an English woman who loves gardens as much as the Japanese.

1. Although the garden is narrow, the dense, three-dimensional arrangement of each component makes it appear larger, thus creating a sense of spaciousness.
2. The well-balanced arrangement of components like trees, lanterns, garden stones, and kyo-ku-sui (meandering stream) imparts a feeling of unity and stability.
3. The quietness of the carp swimming in the stream and the lively sound of the waterfall harmonize without interfering with each other.
4. Due to its narrowness, it is designed for viewing from the open verandah rather than for strolling, ensuring that the viewer never feels disoriented.
5. The large bayberry tree (mountain myrtle tree) in front of you is over 400 years old.
6. The first head of the Nomura family tried to plant and grow plants that grew in his hometown at that time.
7. Unfortunately, the climate and soil were not suitable, and most of them did not grow well.
8. This tree, one of the few that survived, appears to be the guardian deity of this small garden.
9. Many people often describe this garden as small, but for many Japanese who live in rabbit hutch-like dwellings, it probably feels even more spacious.

d) Upper Room / Audience Room/VIP Room

　What is this room in the first place? (What?) and How is it used? (How?). Also, there are many architectural questions, so I have tried to express them with that in mind.

Overall

1. This was a VIP room, known as a Jodan-no-ma, for inviting feudal lords, and was built one step higher than the rest.
2. This room did not exist in the original Nomura House, but was moved from a related daimyo’s mansion when it was restored in the mid-19th century.
3. They are boldly and exquisitely crafted using expensive materials such as ebony and black ebony and elaborate techniques.
4. In such audience halls, a bamboo blind is hung over the room so that the nobleman inside cannot be seen directly.
5. Even common people’s houses are often covered with bamboo blinds, mostly to prevent the outside from seeing the laundry that has been dried inside the room.

Coffered ceiling

1. This ceiling uses a construction method often seen in prestigious halls.
2. A lattice-like framework is constructed with long, slender square timbers, over which backing boards are affixed.
3. It’s worth noting that this ceiling was made entirely of cypress, one of the most expensive types of wood.
4. Hinoki is still utilized in high-end construction today for its beautiful whiteness, luster, and distinctive fragrance.
5. Even today, wealthy individuals have cypress baths at home and enjoy its fragrance.
6. The only drawback is its expense; for us commoners, it’s like buying an overpriced flower, sigh! plus.

Paulownia wood floorboards

1. The floorboards are covered with paulownia wood, a material often used in high-end chests.
2. Paulownia wood has a component that keeps wood-eating insects at bay, making it an ideal material for chests of drawers.
3. So why would such high-quality paulownia wood be used for flooring?
4. There are many possible reasons, but one theory suggests that paulownia floorboards are chosen for their ability to retain warmth.
5. The interior of paulownia wood contains a lot of air, which doesn’t conduct heat easily, making it resistant to cold, much like a sponge.
6. However, its high air content renders it weak, easily scratched, and unsuitable for flooring.
7. Thus, paulownia floorboards are best suited for noble individuals who can tread gracefully without harming the surface.
8. Sadly, this suggests that paulownia wood can repel not only mold and pests but also commoners like us.

Glazed sliding door

1. The glass-filled shoji screens that allow you to see the garden from inside were made in those days.
2. The shoji screens, which could be mistaken for modern ones, would have been an object of amazement two hundred years ago.
3. But why didn’t the wealthy Nomura family opt for adding more expensive yet convenient clear glass?
4. Unlike shoji screens, this glass repels rain, keeps out wind, allows all light to pass through, and can be proudly displayed to those around it.
5. Since the introduction of glass was a symbol of westernization, its widespread use also signaled the end of the samurai period.
6. As if foreseeing this, they decided against turning the place into a glass house after all.
7. Instead, this very popular samurai mansion, which has gained worldwide fame, became another glass house open to the eyes of people in the Net world!

Sliding Screen Painting & Peony

1. The fusuma paintings depict traditional monochrome landscapes and white peonies painted by the best painters of the time.
2. Since the words of peony are “style” and “wealthy,” peonies are often depicted on fusuma paintings in the residences of lords.
3. It has the meaning of “flower king” or “flower god” in China, its country of origin, because of the luxurious atmosphere of a single flower in a vase.
4. Peonies, which are picturesque even with a single flower, are in contrast to cherry blossoms and plum blossoms, which are picturesque by their sheer number.
5. In fact, when painting cherry and plum blossoms, artists must depict numerous flowers and branches, whereas with peonies, a single flower may suffice, making them particularly popular among painters.

e)Tea Room

You can enjoy tea while listening to the sound of the garden’s flowing water. It is also recommended to gaze out the window and daydream while overlooking the garden.

Ceiling

Q1：“This ceiling is a very unusual structure.”

1. You have a keen eye for noticing and appreciating such beauty, as most people overlook its subtle charm.
2. The ceiling features a unique construction with two layers, using cedar on top and paulownia wood beneath.
3. This design allows you to catch glimpses of the beautiful paulownia wood through small knotty holes.
4. Paulownia wood is prized for its resistance to warping and changes in size, ensuring it maintains its exquisite appearance indefinitely.
5. The rare cedar used here is known as ‘Jindai Sugi,’ which means ‘cedar of ancient times.’
6. These cedars were buried in the ground like volcanic ash, for hundreds of years. During this time, they lost their moisture and developed a captivating sheen.
7. In the tea ceremony, there were instances where a guest’s aesthetic sense was sometimes evaluated based on their ability to appreciate unusual materials such as ‘knotty holes’.
8. Guests who could not grasp the value of this ‘knotty holes’ were sometimes viewed with disdain in Japan as a person with eyes like ‘knotty holes’.
9. That’s why I’m sharing this explanation with guests who possess a refined aesthetic sense, like you, today.
10. After all, I wouldn’t want to be considered a “knotty holes-eyed” guide myself.

Antechamber

Q2：“Does this floorboard have any special meaning or characteristics?”

1. The floorboards are made from a single piece of a 1,000-year-old maple tree, which is incredibly precious and rare.
2. Maple wood is generally light cream to reddish-brown in color, with a straight, fine, and uniform grain, which gives it a unique beauty.
3. Maple wood is commonly used due to its hardness, strength, durability, and impact resistance, making it a popular choice for furniture and musical instruments.
4. However, this maple board is not only ancient but also precious in a double sense, as it’s rare to find and procure maple trees large enough to craft such an expansive single piece.
5. The Nomura family must have been quite wealthy to have such a contraption not only in the tea ceremony room but also in the antechamber.
6. While wealthy individuals often use rare and expensive materials to show off, the samurai’s way of displaying wealth may have been a bit different.
7. For example, a maple tree could have been used  as a distinctive accent in a ceiling, allowing waiting guests to enjoy the view of imagined autumn leaves.
8. On the other hand, the use of inconspicuous floorboards may have been intended to evoke the image of autumn leaves falling into the meandering water of the garden.
9. Perhaps the maple tree was chosen to avoid being pestered by many visitors, especially the lord’s lieutenants.
10. Since the language of maple flowers symbolizes reservation, could it have been meant to represent a thousand years of restraint, rather than a thousand years of loneliness？

Thank you 🔶 Afterword

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